dianacouture.com

I have the honor and the pleasure of making my daughter’s wedding dress!  She visited some bridal shops and tried on dresses to determine what style she liked best.  I think this is important, as you may think you love something but change your mind once you have tried it on.  Likewise, you may be surprised by the styles that you fall in love with and love your body as well. 

This is the dress Meagan liked. 

Meagan is vertically challenged, and hemming this dress would take away some of its best features.  Also, because of her height, the position and scale of some of the folds weren’t optimal.  By designing the dress just for her, she gets a dress that will be perfect for her. 

I wanted to drape the gown and knew it would be easier to drape it to size rather than alter it.  I used my Click N Sew sloper/fitting garment  software and made a very fitted garment.  We tried it on and I made adjustments and sewed it onto my dress form.  I stuffed it to fit, measuring to make sure my measurements were correct.  I recommend using a tightly woven fabric for the cover. 

Next I made the interlining, which I will attach the boning to.  I can’t drape the skirt without an underskirt to attach the outer skirt to.  I made this and pinned it onto the form.

By the way, this dress form is a duct-tape double I made a long time ago.  The major disadvantage to duct tape forms are the inability to pin into them.  Also, I thought the arms were a good idea at the time, but they just get in the way and look strange when taking photos.  I am going to get a cheap dressform and make a cover my size when I get time.   I have to say I was impressed once again with the Click N Sew basic block pattern  and the fit I got with minimal adjustments. 

This dress is really a lot easier than it looks.  It is draped in 3 parts, the bodice, torso and skirt.  Looking at the muslin, you will still need to use some imagination, as the muslin won’t hold the shape the way the satin will.  Also, I will play more with the shape of the skirt and the tack ups, but the muslin gave me enough of an idea to know what I need to do and I feel confident enough to start with the actual fabric.  I will have a lot of hand sewing/tacking, when I get to the actual dress, which I will be starting this week.

Stay tuned for more details!  When I get a little further on the dress I will tell you the wedding date.  It is closer than you may think and I am panicking enough without hearing your gasps of shock.

I love trying out sewing gadgets!  Some work and others don’t, but show me a new tube turner and I will buy it faster than a sleep-deprived mom watching infomercials in the middle of the night will buy cooking tools. 

I am teaching advanced sewing at UNT this semester, and we are finishing up a jacket.  I mentioned to my students that I had a welt pocket maker that I had never tried.  They expressed interest and I decided to give it a try.  I bought this tool quite a few years ago thinking it would be an easy and fast alternative to traditional welt pockets.  After looking at it, I put it up without even trying it out until I had some time to play with it.  Fast forward all these years and quite a few welt pockets later, and I am trying it for the first time.  In fact, I don’t think it is available to purchase anymore. 

The key to a welt pocket is precise marking and stitching.  The one advantage of this tool is that it makes precise stitching easier. 

In making any welt pocket, the first thing needed is precise stitching along the center of the pocket and the ends where stitching will stop.  Extend the stitching  1-1/2″ to 2″ longer than the actual pocket measurement.   The best way to do this is to use a running stitch sewn by hand.  To get a straight running stitch, mark the fabric using chalk and then take a couple of stitches in the fabric.  Pull the thread through, leaving a tail.  Line the needle up with the stitches just taken.  Hold the needle straight and take a few more stitches.  This will help to make a very straight line.  I like to use a thread color that is easily seen on the front and back of the fabric. ( White thread isn’t the best choice for my sample as I used white interfacing.) 

For the welt pocket maker, the next step is to cut the fabric for the double welt (this means both welts are made with 1 piece of fabric as opposed to 2 pieces, which is another step that makes the process a little easier.)   I cut my piece 7″ wide x 4″ tall. 

I positioned the fabric in the tool according to the instructions.   I took care to ensure that the fabric was lying flat on the under side of the tool.  If the fabric isn’t flat, the welts probably won’t be even. 

Under side of welt pocket tool

 

If you are looking for an easy welt pocket, there is technique I call a mock welt pocket that is so easy I bet my 9 year old could do it with a little supervision.  That blog will be coming soon!

Occasionally I think it would be fun to be a costumer with the theater.  I have worked several plays with the Denton Community Theater and really enjoy the plays and the people.  It has been a few years since I volunteered so when the opportunity arose I said “sure, it will be fun.”   And it was…kind of.  Between moving, filling Christmas orders and teaching, I had quite a few late nights.  But when all was said and done and Buster and Justin put on their waitress uniforms and added their sparkling personalities to the costumes, I felt like I had done something bigger than make a couple of waitress costumes for 2 men who were dressing like women. 

Don’t they have nice legs

The good thing about sewing for the theater, is that you really can’t mess up.  Buster’s costume was a little small, so I added an extra piece on each of the side seams and made the sleeves wider.  What would be a disaster in fashion is only a slight detour in costuming.    I added shoulder pads to Buster’s busts and made his costume easy for quick change by adding Velcro (TM) instead of buttons and made a side closure for the  apron –instead of tying it just Velcro’d on (but it still had the tie.) 

I am cured from costuming for a while.  Unfortunately, like most people I don’t have enough time to do everything I enjoy.  Nevertheless, I am glad I had an opportunity to play a small part in this sold-out show.

This year I wanted to make some felted pincushions to give as gifts.  I decided to try the Little Cotton Rabbits cupcake pattern for the project.  This pattern is not knitted in the round and has a separate base, but it knits up very quickly, and the piecing doesn’t take long either.  

Now these cupcakes are super cute, but I think felting is much better for a pincushion.   I didn’t make any changes to the pattern, other than the yarn and needles.  I used Pattons Classic Wool and US size 9 needles.    I did softly stuff the cupcake, as I wanted the shrinkage to compact the stuffing.  This is what it looked like prefelted.  

I put my washing machine on hot temperature, low water setting, placed the cupcake in a pillow case, washed it and then dried it in the dryer. 

 It came out really looking more like a ball than a cupcake, but there is no need to panic — you can always rewet and refelt to get it even smaller. 

I did this, and while it was still wet, I shaped it and  placed the cupcake in a muffin pan…

and put the muffin in the oven.  I preheated the oven to 350, turned the oven OFF and placed the cupcake in.  Note, I used a clay baking pan as opposed to metal.  If using metal, you should use lower temperatures, I would think. 

This helped to mold the cupcake into a more pleasing cupcake shape.  

I completely dried the cupcake by repeating the heating process for the oven and then finishing up in the dryer. 

No one wants a fuzzy cupcake, so I shaved it with a disposable razor.  You can use a sweater pill remover too. 

Now for the decorating!  I chose a fabric strip with gathered lace placed across the top.  I hand sewed this to the cupcake, added pins for “beads” around the strip and around the center of the frosting and topped it off with a vintage lace flower and sparkly rhinestone button! 

I am delighted with the way it turned out!  I like the neutral colors enhanced by a little bit of embellishment.  But I also want to try some with more color in the yarn, maybe some pink or blue frosting. 

This cupcake pincushion is for Chelsea,  my wonderful teaching assistant who helped in the Intro to Fashion Design Class this semester.  Not only did she do an incredible job but she is very talented and  a lot of fun to work with too. 

Of course I used my Yarn Owls to hold the yarns while I worked!  The medium/small project size Owl holds the Patons Classic Wool with no room to spare. 

My just-turned 9-year-old had a favorite book bag that she carried to school for 2 years.  The bag, as you can see, has seen better days. 

The fun thing about this bag is the pockets.  I decided to make a new bag using similar pockets but make the bag a little more girlie.  I had a drop cloth from a fabric painting class, and Alli and I decided it would be perfect.

 I used a purple print to soften the colors on the main fabric, and I played with the positioning and shapes of the pockets.  The final look is very different from the original bag; however, it keeps the functional size and shape of the original bag.  The pockets were designed to be more functional, and I added deep elastic-topped pockets to the sides of the bag, perfect for a small bottle of water.

The round pocket in the center of the bag is created using the Round Town pattern. 

The Round Town pattern has an optional pocket as well as instructions for  a small change purse.

The circle pocket is kind of mixture of the small coin purse and the pocket.   I used the front of the coin purse and made the band long enough to go all the way around the pocket.  Instead of an open pocket, the pocket is enclosed and is opened with the zipper. 

As I had already used this raised pocket technique on the Round Town bag, I used the same technique for the other pockets.  On 3 of the pockets; however, I didn’t use the bias binding on the outside but sewed the band to the top pocket right sides together and then topstitched to give it a finished look. 

The pockets with the flaps close with the mini Anorak snaps.  I placed a silk flower in the center of each snap for a girlie touch. 

Depending on the strap you use to carry the bag, the top can fold over as in the above photo.  I thought this was a great place for a little machine embroidery.  These flowers are Mod Flowers from A Bit of Stitch.  I tried them as embroidery without applique fabric behind the stitching, and they disappeared into the background.  I took them into my embroidery software and converted the designs to appliques.  The solid fabric behind the flowers now allows the stitching to stand out. 

Alli has been carrying the bag for about 6 weeks now and still loves it.   It is personalized and definitely a one of a kind!

I was looking through some vintage sewing items that my sister had. In addition to the usual, I found 2 very interesting items, one is cool and the other is, well, a bad idea.

The first is square covered buttons! I have never seen these before!

I haven’t tried these yet, but I definitely will use them. I wish I had more!

The second is a metal invisible zipper. What were they thinking!!!! This looks like it would be uncomfortable and bulky. I can’t imagine what I would use it on!

If I am overlooking a good use for this metal invisible zipper, do let me know. I am sure it would be stronger than a plastic invisible zipper for strapless designs, but it definitely would be uncomfortable!

I have the free crayon  or color pencil roll up on the projects page

This is a fun and easy project.    My version has an elastic loop to wrap around the roll for easy closure.  Several of these can be made in an hour.  One year I made these as party favors for one of my daughter’s class Christmas party.  I didn’t make one for a long time after that, but it can be done!

To go along with this tutorial, I also have a bias binding tutorial up on the freebies page.  This is a basic tutorial on making and applying bias binding.   

As an adult, I don’t use a lot of crayons, but I do have a lot of Copic markers that I have been keeping in plastic baggies, so I decided to make a Designer’s Roll to hold professional grade markers.  This roll holds 24 markers, and I am so excited about my new rolls.  With a color pencil roll, a new bag for my watercolors and a couple of the Designer’s Rolls, I can’t believe how organized I am now.  I also can’t believe I haven’t done this before now.    The Designer’s Roll tutorial is available for $1.00 on my pattern page.    

The difference between these instructions and the crayon roll instructions is the pockets have to be made large enough to hold the markers.   I have the measurements and instructions worked out to perfectly hold the markers.   

With summer upon us, organizing art supplies will keep the kids and the rest of us artists ready to create!  I have added a couple of art organization bags to my Etsy page.  

Pierre Cardin became a household name in the 70’s by licensing his name to everything from men’s cologne to umbrellas and keychains.    What a shame, because before he went into trinket overkill, he was an amazing designer. 

In the Texas Fashion Collection at UNT, there are several pieces by PC.  By far my favorite is this beautiful green wool dress with a whimsical  hem band and a neck band with rows of top stitching.   There are 4 symmetrical “petals” to the hem. 

I think the things  I love most about this dress are the structure combined with the whimsy and the clean style lines that are carried into this simple decoration. 

 Of course, the designer and sewist in me loves to see how a technique was successfully accomplished.  In this case, I was surprised to find a thin layer of a spongy type of fabric (not batting) along with a muslin type fabric sandwiched in the band.  There is no particular seam finish to the band, as the rows of stitching will prevent unraveling.  (Click on the picture to view it larger).  I see this more often than one would think in couture garments.  The purist in me would want to bind the edge to make it pretty.  This reinforces my belief that we have set couture on too high a throne for ordinary sewists.  My impression from browsing the garments in the Texas Fashion Collection is that a couture design is a designer using imaginative techniques and mastering the fabric, making it do what he or she wants and end up looking effortless.   It is spending time on the details that matter and letting the fabric’s innate characteristics work in your favor.

 Here is another Pierre Cardin dress in the collection that uses this technique. 

Interestingly, I discovered that in addition to his other licensing activities, PC also delved in the home sewing market.  According to http://vintagepatterns.wikia.com/wiki/Category:Pierre_Cardin there are 42 patterns.  Here are a couple of his patterns that use this stitching technique for a subtle adornment.   

 As an adjunct instructor at the University of North Texas, I am fortunate to be able to browse the aisles of clothing in the Texas Fashion Collection.  If you like this thread, check back or subscribe to my blog, as I will be adding more on a frequent basis

As promised, I have photos of the design I made for the Red Show, which benefits the American Heart Association.  I made this dress using the hearts from the Etched Elegance collection.

i chose a structured dress with the red velvet polka dots appliqued on by hand.  I stitched and applied Fiber Etch to the velvet and then cut out the circles and appliqued them to the dress.  When working with time-consuming processes, i often like to apply to the garment after the process is completed.  That way, if I mess up I haven’t ruined the whole garment!

To create the dots, I cut circles of Decor Bond the size of my dots and larger circles of the velvet, centering my designs.  I then wrapped the velvet around the Decor Bond and hand tacked it in place.  These were then stitched to the dress.   The whole process went very quickly and the dots were very smooth.

The back is just plain velvet.  I dyed the velvet to achieve the color.

The beautiful model is my daughter, Alli.  Here is another photo of her waiting in the wings.

I am teaching 4 classes this semester as an adjunct instructor, 2 at UNT and 2 at TWU.  The classes are a fashion sketching class, a beginning sewing class and 2 sections of an advanced sewing class.  Teaching the sewing classes has inspired me to tweak my basic sloper and start designing and sewing my own clothing again.  As time goes by my body has changed, I have gained a few pounds and fitting is more of an issue.  

 I liked the idea of using technology but didn’t want to buy a large package in order to get a basic sloper.  As a home sewist, I don’t want to piece dozens of pieces of 8-1/2 x 11 paper perfectly matched to create patterns.  As a designer, I want to make my own patterns.   What I needed was a perfect fitting sloper (basic pattern or shell) that could be quickly achieved, printed once, transferred to heavier paper and used over and over to create patterns from my own designs. 

I found Wild Ginger’s Click & Sew pattern 1201, Women’s Fitting Garments for $25 at www.wildginger.com and decided to try it.   What seems like a million years ago, I had Fittingly Sew software.  I was disappointed in the basic fitting garments I achieved with the software.  Although the software worked to draft patterns, if I couldn’t get the sloper to fit, or if I had to spend a long time on multiple drafts to get it correct, it wasn’t worth using.  I also discovered then that I did not like taping the pieces together.  In most cases, it would be much quicker to draft by hand.  (I feel so strongly about this that I strive to keep the taping of pattern pieces to the very minimum in the purse patterns I offer.)

Much time and technology has passed since I used the Fittingly Sew software, and I decided it was time to try again.  The Click & Sew pattern comes on a CD.  I installed it on my computer, put in 22 measurements plus my weight  and bra size (it says weight and bra size do not affect fit of pattern but will not draft without the numbers.)   The pattern contains a dress sloper, a bodice, sleeve and skirt sloper as well as pants.  The screen gives several options such as 1 dart or 2, amount of ease, crotch shape, dart length and position and quite a few other tweaks. 

I printed the dress (sheath) sloper first.  The pattern prints in rows and columns.  The dress sloper printed over 35 sheets of paper, 5 of which had no printing on them because of their position in the rows. 

Taping the pieces together was time consuming, as I knew it would be.  I feel the corner markings could be larger.  Each corner is a fourth of a circle, which is then lined up.  I worked in rows and found by the third row I was having trouble matching the circles, despite my careful steps to prevent this from happening.  I believe if the printer feeds the sheets off just a little bit it can affect the perfect fitting of the pieces.  Also, any slight deviation over several sheets of paper will cause a noticeable shift.   What I did to accommodate this was cut in between the pieces to ensure the pages fit correctly for the individual pieces.

Here is the finished sloper pattern.

I sewed it together and the only fitting issues was that there was too much fabric at the upper back and a small issue with the fit if the shoulder.  I fixed this on my paper pattern and referred to the fitting guide under the user guides tab to correct the measurement in the software for future use.  The fitting guide was simple and straightforward, which is good when fitting!  Considering fitting issues I have had before, this was a piece of cake!

I have drafted a jacket pattern and a skirt without having to worry about fit and will be blogging about my jacket soon I hope!  

The things I like about the software are the ease in getting a great fitting sloper, the options offered, their great customer service, the easy user guides included and the price!

The things I did not like are putting the pages together and the fact that this software pattern will not save  or store measurements.

Wild Ginger’s customer service told me that their software programs save multiple measurements but not their individual patterns.  I also asked about the ability to print on larger paper at a copy or print center.  They  tell me that if I can print to Adobe, I can save the pattern to print on a larger printer, but they find it can be quite expensive.  I haven’t checked out this option yet but will.  I would have to weigh the cost of printing versus the time spent piecing.

I wish the pattern would draft a child’s sloper too, but it is designed to fit a woman’s body.  Perhaps one day they will do a sloper for children too.  I also wish I could have downloaded the pattern instead of waiting for the CD, but the shipping was very fast. 

Wild Ginger has a free downloadable Wild Things! accessories pattern.   I haven’t used it yet, but it looks like an excellent basic pattern for hats, bags, wraps and belts.  It also has a number of pocket variations which could be useful for placing on clothing as well.

 The above review is my own opinion as a customer.  I paid for the pattern and do not personally know anyone at Wild Ginger.